Friday, August 24, 2012

Pinelands National Reserve







8/24/12. After sailing in Barnegat Bay this morning, we decided to visit the Pinelands National Reserve to get a National Parks Passport Stamp. We had never been there before, but discovered it was only about a half hour out of way to the northern part of the reserve - the Brendan Byrne State Forest.

We found the entrance with no problem, and parked in front of the Visitor's Center. Luckily, we had read on the website that the center was closed and there was a trailer used by the Fire Intervention staff that was functioning as the park center too. We asked for the stamp, and with the typical lack of warmth that we too often find in our home state, the women there reluctantly found it and helped us.

As we left the visitor center parking area, we saw a sign for Pakim Pond and decided that would be a good place to start our visit. We meandered through various roads and sandy trails - some that were too sandy for my Mazda. We wished we had brought one of our 4-wheel drive cars instead!

Along the way we came across a bog that was rather dry but still fascinating, especially since we had never visited this area before. Eventually we came across the pond, with the help of GPS and Google Maps. It completely empy and we sat at the end of the water for a long time, listening to the cicadas and breeze in the trees. It was so quiet otherwise - especially no road noise, people noise, or any other man-made sounds. It was hard to tear ourselves away, but we finally decided it was time to head back to the main road and work our way home.

We loved this reserve and we are looking forward to visiting more of this huge area in the future.


Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Park 14: Saint Paul's Church National Historic Site

8/21/12. Today we went to the Bronx Zoo with some friends and when we left, we decided to stop by Saint Paul's Church National Historic Site which was very close by. The site contains a lovely church and cemetery surrounded by the worst of urban blight and sprawl - a real irony that makes us appreciate the Park Service's commitment to saving such sites.

The National Park Website says it is one of New York's oldest parishes (1665-1980). It was used as a hospital following the important Revolutionary War Battle at Pell's Point in 1776, and was the scene of various military developments for the next six years. The church stood at the edge of Eastchester village green, the site of the "Great Election" (1733), which raised the issues of Freedom of Religion and Press. The adjoining cemetery contains burials dating from 1704.

We entered the low building that was once the parish hall and watched a movie about the church history. There was also a small museum and a few artifacts. This is clearly a national historic site that could use more resources in the future.

After spending some time looking over the museum, we had a better sense of the historical context - and a brief reference to a woman who was related to the Rand family!

Next the ranger took us on a private tour of the church since there wasn't anyone else there at that time. We spent some time inside the nave learning about the church history and then went into the choir loft. Jason had a great time examining the organ.

From the choir loft we entered the bell tower and worked our way up through the narrow passage using wooden ladders.




We finally reached the top of the tower where the bell is kept. The view was magnificent and we learned more about the bell:
"Design of the church was inspired by the edifices built around London following the Great Fire of 1666, where the principal architect was Christopher Wren. Books with sketches and diagrams based on the construction of some of those churches were available in colonial New York. Local masons helped to build the church along with craftsmen from New York City who would live in the area for months, boarding with Eastchester families. Stones were drawn from the local fields (hence the contemporary term, “fieldstone”), while bricks were also local, probably molded from clay deposits along the Hudson River. Mortar was a proscribed combination of water, sand and lime as the bonding agent, with quantities mixed in a pit at the southern edge of the Green. As a public project of the town, funds were drawn from regular taxation revenues, and supplemented with lotteries.

A large undertaking for a relatively small town, the church was not complete when the political and military disruption of the American Revolution rocked the area, halting construction. On the eve of the war, most of the exterior was in place, and the tower had been erected about 2/3 of the way to the present steeple, but the interior was little more than a dirt floor. The community was still worshipping in the wooden meetinghouse. Yet, even in its unfinished form, the church was the largest, best built, centrally located building in the vicinity, and since it was unlocked and unused during the War for American Independence, it became the obvious location for a field hospital during local campaigns. It was used by the American, British and Hessian armies. The need for firewood as fuel by those forces led to the complete disassembling of the older meetinghouse by the war’s conclusion."

Finally, we crawled back down and walked around the cemetery, learning more about the people buried there over the years. It was a gorgeous late summer day and we were delighted to have had this opportunity to explore the history of our area!


Saturday, August 18, 2012

Park 13: Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area & Juan Bautista de Anza NHT

8/18/12. After leaving the Channel Islands, we drove to the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area. We found the entrance, parked, and set off to find the Satwiwa Native American Indian Culture Center. This looked like an interesting location from the website, however, we had trouble even finding it, tucked back in the woods, about a quarter mile from the parking lot. There were no signs leading the way, and even the building was hard to identify. It seemed as thought they didn't really want too many people visiting!

Garden outside the Satwiwa Center

One of the trails in the Western Recreation Area
The building was new and had a few simple displays about native American culture. There were no programs going on today, even though it was a Saturday and we saw many people hiking in the park. We got our passport stamp, bought a few books about native Americans, and then walked the trail back to the parking lot.

Adaptive reuse exhibit
We decided to try the main Visitor Center (Anthony C. Beilson Interagency Visitor Center) which was recently opened in a newly renovated building of the King Gilette Ranch. This large space included a large array of beautifully designed educational exhibits, activities, and displays. According to the NPS website, "the building is the first "net zero" visitor center in the National Park Service and is working with the U.S. Green Building Council to qualify the building as a LEED certified facility."

In reading through the exhibits, we discovered that the Santa Monica mountains have been the site for many movies and TV shows, including MASH. We decided to head over to the area in which MASH was filmed and we were stunned when we saw the views and how much it looked like the show! The trails to the actual site were longer than we wanted to hike, so we decided to save that for our next trip here, ha ha!

Area of the Santa Monica Mountains where MASH was filmed



This area is also part of the Juan Bautista National Heritage Trail. According to the NPS website, in 1775-76, Anza led more than 240 men, women and children on an epic journey to establish a settlement at San Francisco Bay. The 1,200-mile Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail commemorates, protects, marks, and interprets the route traveled by Anza and the colonists during the years 1775 and 1776 from Sonora, Mexico (New Spain), to settle Alta California and establish a mission and presidio at today's San Francisco, California.

We toured a bit more of the recreation area, then headed to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library. Our goal was the Disney Archive special exhibit, but we also enjoyed the rest of the museum a great deal, including the tour of Air Force One.

Catherine practicing for when she is president at the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library



The amazing size of Air Force One


Late in the afternoon, we left the mountain area and headed to Los Angeles hotel so that we would be closer to the airport for our morning flight back home. We were sorry to end our trip, but amazed at how well all of plans worked out and our ability to see all the parks we had planned!

View of the mountains from the Reagan Library



Friday, August 17, 2012

Park 12: Channel Islands

Getting Ready to Leave the Marina
8/17/12. We left early this morning to arrive at the marina to catch our 8 am boat to Santa Barbara Island in the Channel Islands. We only had one day to actually go to the islands and we chose Santa Barbara because it is one of the most remote. The Island Packers, the only company to run boats to the islands, only takes about 3 trips out to Santa Barbara each year and we hit one of the days they were going.

Sea Lions on the Bouy as we left Ventura Harbor
We boarded the catamaran ferry with plenty of water, peanut butter sandwiches, snacks, sunscreen, hats, and jackets.  After and hour and a half, the boat landed first at Santa Cruz Island which gaves us amazing views of the volcanic rocky shore. Next we spent another 3 hours to get to Santa Barbara Island.


Santa Cruz Island Shoreline

The Pier at Santa Barbara Island
Sea Lions at the Pier on Santa Barbara


Starting our guided tour

Giant Coreopsis - dry from the lack of water
The boat pulled up to the small pier and we got out and climbed a steep slope up to the tiny visitor center and research building. We were surprised to find an NPS stamp on a small shelf by the visitors log, since this was such a remote and barren island.

We waited for one of the park volunteers to unload her camping gear, and she joined us and a few other visitors for a guided hike around the island. She was wonderful -- very knowledgable and interesting and she seemed to intuitively know when to stop and talk while we rested.



Crystalline Iceplant
Fields of non-native crystalline iceplants which are taking over much of the island
Jason and Catherine overlooking the cliffs with our tour guide

The crystal clear water around the island
 The island was incredibly dry and barren - although there were plants covering all of the area, and some were showing signs of getting some water recently. There is no source of fresh water on the island. We walked around one tip and stopeed to enjoy the cliffs and sights below. Then we hiked up a larger hill and sat down to each lunch on a wooden bench between the two main peaks on the island. Jason decided to climb the second, higher peak to see views on the other side of the island, which is 1 mile long.

Catherine and Muriel eating lunch
Jason climbing down from the peak
View of Catherine and Muriel from the top of the peak


View of the far shore of the island
Fields of dried grasses on the peak
Smaller island on the side of Santa Barbara












The Island Packer ferry















By now it was almost time to meet the boat to return to the mainland, so we walked the path back to the pier by ourselves. The ocean swells had become larger at this point and they had trouble getting the boat into the pier. We were able to get on quickly in one of their tries, but others had to take the dingy to the boat.

On the four and half hour ride back to the mainland, the pilot stopped three times so that we could see three different kinds of dolphins that were frolicing around the boat. It was very exciting and reminded me of watching a nature special on TV!


Inside the main cabin with our new friend, Bob

Catherine and I started feeling queasy on the way back from the big ocean swells, and we were glad to pull into the dock around 7 pm. We discovered that the marina in Ventura has a lovely set of restaurants along the water so we stopped to have dinner at an Italian restaurant. We then drove back to the hotel in Oxnard, exhausted!
 
The next morning we drove back to the Marina to visit the Channel Islands Visitors Center to get the passport stamps and see the exhibits. This center is very well done, with interesting displays, video, and other educational activities. We left midmorning to visit the Santa Monica Recreational Area.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Park 11: Joshua Tree National Park


8/16/12. Our summer vacation trip started in Anaheim with a terrific visit to Disneyland and the D23 Convention. Therefore, we planned to visit as many national park units in the southern California area in the few days we had before flying home.

We started out by renting a car in Anaheim, picking up lots of snacks and water at the 7-11, and then drove east to the Joshua Tree Visitor's Center. The ranger helped us plan our visit. Then we purchased a few more bottles of water and headed into the park.

The views of the northern part of the park were amazing. The Joshua trees and huge boulders were unlike anything we had seen before and fel more like a Martian landscape than a national park! We drove first up to Keys View, the highest point in the park, and enjoyed the view of the valleys and mountains in the distance.


Joshua Trees at the entrance to the park




The amazing jumbo rocks created the aura of another world





Keys View

Next we drove back to the Keys Ranch and Barker Dam area, stopping frequently to read the educational panels and take photos. We stopped and walked the trail down to Barker Dam and then climbed on the rocks to get a better look at the petroglyphs. Next we headed off for another trail to an old mine, but as we left the car, Jason got an alert on his phone about a flash flood alert and it started to rain. Since we were on an unpaved road, we decided to skip this trail and get back on the paved roads.





We drove up to the Oasis Visitor Center, got our passport stamp, and then decided to work our way down through the Mojave section of the park to the Colorado desert. We drove through the jumbo rocks and went by Skull rock, and then headed down to the Cholla Cactus Garden.This was probably our favorite part of the park. The cacti were so unearthy and exotic! We walked the short trail through some of the cacti, then headed off for the rest of the park as it started to rain again. We enjoyed the irony that the only time it rained during our trip in southern California was in the Mojave.
Skull Rock


Cholla Cactus Garden
 

We continued our drive south, stopping to study the ocatillo plants more closely, then making our way into the Colorado desert. By now it was late afternoon so the sun was low in the sky, providing a magnificent jagged skyline with glowing blue striations of mountain peaks. It was truly breathtaking. As we reached the end of the park, we stopped and walked down to the Lost Palms Oasis. Finally, we reached the Cottonwood Visitor's Center which by this time was closed for the day.

Ocatillo trunk
Rain over the desert
Lost Palms Oasis

We exited the park and drove along I5 to Palm Springs to have dinner. We loved the views of the setting sun, wind farms, and mountains as we headed west. About 10 pm we finally reached Oxnard, on the coast so that we were close to our Channel Island adventure tomorrow.


Blue glow in the mountains at sunset heading to Palm Springs
Wind turbines outside of Palm Springs