Park 23: Fort Sumter National Monument

5/26/13. We drove to Charleston early in the morning in time to get tickets for the 9:30 am ferry to Fort Sumter. The ferry ride took about 30 minutes during which time the boat played a recording of the history of the fort as the site where the civil war begun.  The weather was beautiful and we had amazing views of the harbor. We also learned that Fort Sumter's island was constructed with a foundation of over 70,000 tons of granite and other rock. For over a decade contractors from as far away as New York and the Boston area delivered this material by ship and dumped it on a shoal in Charleston Harbor.

When we got to the island, we spent a little while listening to a guide give us more details about the history of the fort, then we explored the various areas. The view of the inlet and river were amazing. Because it was Memorial Day weekend, and the weather was perfect, the monument was quite crowded. We also visited the museum at the fort which had some fascinating artifacts and information:

"When the Civil War finally exploded in Charleston Harbor, it was the result of a half-century of growing sectionalism. Escalating crises over property rights, human rights, states rights and constitutional rights divided the country as it expanded westward. Underlying all the economic, social and political rhetoric was the volatile question of slavery. Because its economic life had long depended on enslaved labor, South Carolina was the first state to secede when this way of life was threatened. Confederate forces fired the first shot in South Carolina, and the federal government responded with force. Decades of compromise were over, and the very nature of the Union was at stake."

In all, we spent about an hour on the island and learned a great deal about civil war history and the geography of the area. During the ferry ride back, we also heard more about the history of the area. When we got back to the visitor's center, we got our Passport Stamps and then headed out to have lunch in Charleston.

 

Park 21 & 22: Timucuan Ecological and Historical Preserve & Fort Caroline National Memorial

5/25/13. After leaving Saint Augustine, we headed north towards Jacksonville and arrived at the Timucuan Ecological and Historical Preserve. We looked at some interesting exhibits at the Visitor's Center, learning that, "French explorer Jean Ribault was impressed by the first native peoples he encountered in Florida. The Timucuans under Chief Saturiwa, who met the French at the mouth of the River of May in 1562, were one of a number of Timucua-speaking tribes who inhabited central and north Florida and southeastern Georgia. They were the final stage of a culture whose way of life had remained essentially unchanged for more than 1000 years."

Next we walked down a short path to Fort Caroline National Memorial. This fort was not much more than a mound close to the river that memorializes the people and history of the area - and the conflict between Spanish and French settlers. The views of the preserve and water were lovely.

We got a map of the preserve and headed farther north to the Kingsley Plantation. This was not very far from the visitor center as the crow flies but it took us a long time to drive around since it was on the other side of the river. As we got closer, we drove down a long, narrow road paved with shells that created great dust. The scene was very much southern: tall trees with lots of Spanish moss and other vines and vegetation. The ground was sandy and the road paved with shells.

Although this "plantation" has not much on display, we really enjoyed our visit because the interpretive panels were very good and there were a few interesting gems here, notably the display on how they made dye from indigo and the slave quarters. The slave quarters were, of course, very disturbing - a curved row of tiny little houses made from "tabby" - a building material made from ground up oyster shells, lime, sand, and water.

 We spent a long time trying to figure out how these little huts were made and what they would have looked like and how the families functioned. We finally left, exhausted and headed north to South Carolina to spend the night.

Gullah-Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor

5/15/13. As we made our way up the southeast coast, we visited a variety of sites that are part of the Gullah-Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor, including Castillo de San Marcos, Fort Caroline, Kingsley Plantation, Timucuan Preserve, and Liberty Square.

According to the National Park website, It is home to one of America's most unique cultures, a tradition first shaped by captive Africans brought to the southern United States from West Africa and continued in later generations by their descendents. The Gullah/Geechee people are descendents of enslaved Africans from various ethnic groups of west and central Africa. Brought to the New World and forced to work on the plantations of coastal South Car

olina, Georgia, North Carolina and Florida, Gullah/Geechee people have retained many aspects of their African heritage due to the geographic barriers of the coastal landscape and the strong sense of place and family of Gullah/Geechee community members.

Park 19 & 20: Fort Matanzas National Monument and Castillo de San Marco

5/25/13. We left Disney World about 7:50 this morning, feeling sad to go, but excited about visiting national park units on the drive home. We were planning to stop first at Castillo de San Marcos, but as we got close, we saw signs for Fort Matanzas National Monument and decided to detour there. This small park has a ferry to the monument on the other side of the river. The national park service website says, "Coastal Florida was a major field of conflict as European nations fought for control in the New World. As part of this struggle, Fort Matanzas guarded St. Augustine’s southern river approach." We watched a short historical film and walked down to the ferry dock to get a better look at the monument. Small by the standards of other forts, but unusual in shape and size. We decided we didn't want to take the time for the ferry so we headed back to the car and continued on our way to Castillo de San Marcos National Monument in Saint Augustine.

We were surprised by the crowds at the monument - perhaps because it is Memorial Day Weekend - and got lucky to find a parking space. The fort is very impressive, and according the NPS, "the site consists of 20.5 acres and includes a reconstructed section of the walled defense line surrounding the city of St. Augustine incorporating the original city gate. The Castillo de San Marcos' architecture and detail are distinctive and unique. It is the oldest masonry and only extant 17th century fort in North America. The 300 years of the colonial era (c. 1500-1800) were ones of constant warfare. As European countries vied with each other for the economic wealth in the “New Worlds” they increasingly came into military conflict as well. Encounters starting in Europe, Africa, Asia or the Americas quickly escalated into international global warfare. The Castillo de San Marcos, though a remote outpost, weathered many attacks during these almost incessant colonial wars."



We toured the lower levels which had interpretive guides and lectures, then made our way up to the upper level which had magnificent views of the river, inlet, and St. Augustine. There were many Spanish armaments, and we watched a recreation of the soldiers firing off some of the cannons. They were LOUD! It was interesting to hear them give commands in Spanish since we've seen many British re-creations around our home area. Catherine and I were downwind so we were covered in ash. We figured the boats in the river got a kick out of them firing right at them! We also learned a bit about the cultural history of the area and this unit is part of the Gullah-Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor which I write about in the next blog post! 

Park 18: National Capital Parks: Oxon Cove Park and Oxon Hill Farm

5/18/13. Today we started our big end-of-the-semester vacation. Catherine, Jason, his girlfriend Kelsey, and I headed out in my Mazda 5 for the drive to Florida. Since we left a couple hours earlier than planned, I quick checked the Google Earth map that the National Parks Traveler's Club has created to see what little park unit might be on the way and close to I95.

We found just the thing at Oxon Cove Park and Oxon Hill Farm just off of I 495 at the border of Maryland and Virginia. The day had been drizzling, but the rain stopped while we visited the farm site. According to the National Park website: Beginning in the early 19th century, Oxon Cove Park witnessed changing land patterns typical of the southern Maryland region. These changes began with the Debutts family who bought the property and established the Mount Welby Plantation.
The Mount Welby period represents only one layer of the park's deep and diverse history. The park has been home for many generations of human habitation during the past 10,000 years--beginning with the Native American peoples who have hunted for wild game and gathered plants up until the 17th century.
Forty-eight years after the Debutts sold the property, the land was acquired by the United States Government to establish a therapeutic farm for St. Elizabeths Hospital known as Godding Croft.
The property was entrusted to the National Park Service in 1959 to protect its natural and cultural resources from the threat of increased urban development, and to continue to tell the story of the land and how it has changed overtime.

The farmland was stunning beautiful on this wet spring day and it was a little oasis just outside the city. We walked around, looking at the displays outside the buildings and toured the tiny visitor center. I was delighted to realize that this was park of the Capitol City region and we got our first red stamps. We bought Kelsey a passport so she can keep a record of where we visit on this vacation.

After about 45 minutes, which was plenty of time to see this site, we got back on the road, heading south for our first leg of the trip which ended in Fayetteville, NC. Tomorrow we will make it the rest of the way to Orlando.

Park 17: Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site

5/15/13. We continued our day in New York by walking down to the Theodore Roosevelt National Historic Site on 20th street. According to the National Park website:

Theodore Roosevelt, the 26th President of the United States, lived at this site from his birth on October 27, 1858 until he was 14 years old. The reconstructed house contains five period rooms, two museum galleries and a bookstore. Teedie, as young Roosevelt was nicknamed, was a sickly but bright boy, from a wealthy family. To improve his health, Teedie began an exercise program at the house's outdoor gymnasium that started a lifelong passion for the "strenuous life." After graduating from Harvard, Roosevelt pursued his boyhood dreams, as a rancher, naturalist, explorer, author and Colonel of the Rough Riders. His political service included reforming the U.S. Civil Service Commission and New York City Police Department, and terms as Governor of New York and Vice President of the U.S.

Theodore Roosevelt became president when William McKinley was assassinated in September 1901. As President, Roosevelt pushed progressive reforms, such as conservation of public lands and trust busting, and negotiated an end to the war between Russia and Japan, for which he won a Nobel Peace Prize. Roosevelt's original birthplace was demolished in 1916. After Roosevelt's death in 1919, the site was purchased by the Women's Roosevelt Memorial Association, rebuilt and decorated with many of its original furnishings by Roosevelt's sisters and wife.

We had a terrific tour of the rooms on the second and third floors of the house. The volunteer tour guide must have been a history or political science professor - and a good one! He made the tour fascinating and he knew so much about the house, the architecture, the family, and Teedie. It was difficult standing still listening and I wish there had been some place to sit, but the talk itself was very well done.

After an hour or so we were done, and we walked back up to Penn Station for our train home. We ended the day knowing a lot more about the early history of New York City and our country in general. A great day!

Parks 16: Federal Hall National Memorial

5/15/13. Since my semester ended this week, Catherine and I decided to fit in a national park trip before our big vacation next week. We decided to visit some sites in Manhattan so that we could also visit John and Brad who were working in the city. This month is the Eats Festival in Washington Square Park and that gave us an anchor to plan around for lunch.

We headed off to NY on the express train to Newark from Princeton Junction, then took the Path to the World Trade Center. We walked over to our first stop at Federal Hall which is on Wall Street. We played tourist and took some photos out front - which is hard for us to do in Manhattan because we're so used to trying to NOT look like tourists. The National Park Service website tell us that, "Here on Wall Street, George Washington took the oath of office as our first President, and this site was home to the first Congress, Supreme Court, and Executive Branch offices. The current structure, a Customs House, later served as part of the US Sub-Treasury. Now, the building serves as a museum and memorial to our first President and the beginnings of the United States of America."

When we went inside we were pleasantly surprised at the classic beauty of the building. Although small, the proportions, carvings, and overall symmetry are lovely. We spent some time looking at the exhibits around the building, including an early printing press and the bank vaults from when the building was converted to a federal reserve bank.

At 10 am the ranger came and asked us if we were interested in the tour and we said yes. Well, we couldn't really call his presentation a tour. He stood between two models of earlier versions of Federal Hall and explained in great detail the early history of NYC, the early government, George Washington, and other minute details about the early site. After a half an hour he ended his talk. He certainly knew a great deal about the history of the building before the inauguration of Washington. The rest of the information we got through the displays. There was also a lower floor that had a bank vault and interesting columns supporting the building.

When we were ready to leave the tine bookstore was still not open, so we asked the Ranger to get us the Passport stamp which he did gladly. We stamped our books, then headed out for a walking tour of the Wall Street area. We were meeting John at noon and we still had about an hour to go. We walked around, paying most attention to the architecture of the buildings downtown. It was so chilly though (especially for mid May!) that we stopped at TJ Max and bought an extra sweater.

We met John and headed up to Washington Square Park where Brad joined us for lunch. We had fabulous food! It was especially nice to find so many different vegetarian options that were so creative and delicious. It was great to be in the city!

Next, John, Catherine, and I walked the few blocks to Theodore Roosevelt's Birthplace....to be continued.

Park 7 (a): Edison National Historic Site: Part II

5/11/13. Since we visited the Edison National Historic Site last spring, we have been looking forward to returning. Today we gathered the rest of the family for Mother's Day Weekend and drove to South Orange to visit the laboratory. The rain and thunderstorms did not dampen our enthusiasm!

John, Brad, Catherine, Jason, Kelsey and I got their early afternoon and began reading through the exhibits:

Check out this amazing/crazy statue!

We got a lot more out of seeing the factory machinery after having been to Lowell MA last summer. Now we understand how the machines are powered.

This is basically a mechanical spreadsheet. How clever!

We ended the afternoon with a tour of Edison's home. This is one of our favorite parts to the historic site!